** SEARCH HERE ** (if it is 2 or more words put them in quotes)
Custom Search

See how: How to search for your beach across 260+ websites devoted to surfing waves.
The same search box is also at the top of all of our pages on this site.
Why you should use THIS search:
Because any other search includes sites using the mixed metaphor "surfing the web".

Sydney Wave Height, Period & Direction

Manly Hydraulics Laboratory wave rider buoy (Sydney)
See also the animated version:

Directional spectra plots are able to represent combinations of waves.
They show the direction, so for NSW the wave energy mostly will come from the top right (NE swell) to the bottom (S swell) of the plot. Long period waves are shown towards the outside of the plot, and short period waves are towards the centre. 

The graphic expresses all the waves in terms of their power. Wave power is proportional to the wave period and to the square of the wave height.

This single measure replaces the more familiar double measure of wave height and period.

The measure is energy density m2/deg.Hz

From Wikipedia:
Wave power formula
Here power is expressed in kilowatts of power potential per meter.
In deep water where the water depth is larger than half the wavelength, the wave energy flux is

with P the wave energy flux per unit of wave-crest length, Hm0 the significant wave height, T the wave period, ρ the water density and g the acceleration by gravity.
When the significant wave height is given in metres, and the wave period in seconds, the result is the wave power in kilowatts (kW) per metre of wavefront length.

Example: Consider moderate ocean swells, in deep water, a few km off a coastline, with a wave height of 3 m and a wave period of 8 seconds. Using the formula to solve for power, we get

meaning there are 36 kilowatts of power potential per meter of wave crest.

In major storms, the largest waves offshore are about 15 meters high and have a period of about 15 seconds. According to the above formula, such waves carry about 1.7 MW of power across each metre of wavefront.

Look, we will sort this out and get back to you. Feel free to comment if you can.

No comments:

Post a Comment

Surf Forecasts

Global swells explained:
With these graphics you can see where the surf is being generated and how it is moving across the oceans.
Also have a look at
Stormsurf on YouTube

Related sites: - Making surfing reefs and grooming surf breaks. - SUPing but from a kneeling position. - Bruce's personal blog. - Bruce learns foiling, a blog.

Surf parks?
We recommend if you are looking for information on surf parks and inland surfing you start at: #surfmore